Enough politics for today

Dinner. Fuchsia Dunlop's Pock-Marked Ma’s Bean Curd.

1 block bean curd (about 1 pound)
4 baby leeks or 2 leeks
½ cup peanut oil (¼ cup will do)
6 ounces ground beef
2½ tablespoons Sichuanese chili bean paste (Toban Jian)
1 tablespoon fermented black beans
2 teaspoons ground Sichuanese chiles (hot, but not really optional)
1 cup “everyday stock” or chicken stock
1 teaspoon white sugar
2 teaspoons light soy sauce
salt to taste
4 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 6 tablespoons cold water
½ teaspoon ground roasted Sichuan pepper

Cut the bean curd into 1-inch cubes and leave to steep in very hot or gently simmering water that you have lightly salted. Slice the leeks at a steep angle into thin "horse ear" slices 1½ inches long.

Season the wok, then add the peanut oil and heat over a high flame until smoking. Add the minced beef and stir-fry until it is crispy and a little brown, but not yet dry.

Turn the heat down to medium, add the chili bean paste and stir-fry for about 30 seconds, until the oil is a rich red color. Add the fermented black beans and ground chiles and stir-fry for another 20-30 seconds until they are both fragrant and the chiles have added their color to the oil.

Pour in the stock, stir well, and add the drained bean curd. Mix it in gently by pushing the back of your ladle or wok scoop gently from the edges to the center of the wok—do not stir or the bean curd may break up. Season with the sugar, a couple of teaspoons of soy sauce, and salt to taste. Simmer for about 5 minutes, until the bean curd has absorbed the flavors of the sauce.

Add the leeks or scallions and gently stir in. When they are just cooked, add the cornstarch mixture in two or three stages, mixing well, until the sauce has thickened enough to cling glossily to the meat and bean curd. Don't add more than you need. Finally, pour everything into a deep bowl, scatter with the ground Sichuan pepper, and serve.

Serves: 2-3 as a main course with rice and a vegetable; 4 if several other dishes are served.